@CrazyQuilter there is conflicting research out right now as to whether pruning increases tomato output over the life of the plants. I typically will pinch prune those stems that are lower and either have no fruit or finished fruiting. It seems to work for me, I finally cut down the number of tomatoes that I plant I've got 6 this year, but 4 are cherry cultivars.

@CrazyQuilter with those parameters, I would go for one v shaped branching on the main trunk and remove most suckers, so that it looks like a tomato hook worm has attacked the plant. They can survive and even thrive with only mimmal foliage. You get about the same amount of sun that I do, but i believe that you will have more sub 80 degree nights (the maximum temp that blossoms naturally set fruit) so upright cages should do well. The more daytime heat you have, the smaller you should want the fruit to be.

@glennlab , @Glenn, another bonus the smaller the fruit the quicker it ripens.

@freeofgod there are certain cultivars that work best in the south for "fall" tomatoes (plant in July harvest sept-Nov). The large varieties work best where you have a longer cool season at night. Ox-heart, beefsteak, and other giants take so long to mature that they end up losing a lot of their fruit to sunscald, and other heat related problems. Another reason I plant more cherry and grape tomatoes.